DOG TRAINING EQUIPMENT

Because of their great variety, it's difficult to state grooming tips that apply equally to all terrier breeds. But two broad categories are most common. The long, silky hair of the Yorkie who has no undercoat, for example, requires one technique. The dense undercoat of a Westie implies another.

For those with long, soft coats like the Yorkshire or Skye Terrier regular brushing is a must. Clipping the coat to a length that will keep it off the ground when walking will help, too, but it's not recommended for show dogs. Stripping and plucking is used instead though pet owners might want the same look.

With a stripping knife held down with the thumb, work the tool over the coat to get out dead hairs and return sheen and smoothness to the coat. Take care not to twist the tool taking live hair, too. Move in the direction of hair growth.

Plucking requires taking dead hair between the thumb and fingers and giving a quick, firm tug. Hold the skin down to prevent discomfort. Select only hairs that are well developed. Young growth is firmly implanted. Left on their own, the older hairs would simply shed out.

Clipping works well for Wire-Haired Fox Terriers, Airedales, Lakelands and similar breeds.

To clip, use a #7 Oster blade down the back, starting at the head and moving toward the tail. Then do the chest, elbows and outer thighs. Here again, move in the direction of hair growth, not against the grain. For Miniature Schnauzers, continue inside the thigh. A #10 blade works well for trimming ears, the muzzle and the crown. Eyebrows can be trimmed with a pair of rounded-end scissors.

A pair of thinning shears can make short work of that wiry, coarse coat so common on the above-mentioned terriers. Combined with a good comb, you can work your way over the dense areas rapidly. Use the rounded-end scissors again to work your way around the ears, inside and out.

A wire-toothed comb will help stimulate skin, remove dead skin cells and undo tangles. Work slowly in parts that resist, then give a firm stroke to areas that cooperate. To remove really stubborn mats, use extreme caution and clip the mat away by holding it out from the skin and working the scissors in between the skin and mat. For those close to the skin, snip a small portion at a time and work the hair out gradually.

Whenever possible, perform the procedure on a table or platform. A sturdy kitchen table, well covered, is one possibility. Even a section of plywood over the bathtub, covered with a non-stick rubber mat, can help. Dog grooming tables are available for purchase.

The idea is to use a solid raised surface so you get plenty of light and can walk around to see the dog from different angles. Professional setups typically have a halter attached to the platform to prevent movement. With high-energy terriers, which is all of them, that can be a big help.

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The first tool any terrier owner will need is a collar/leash or halter. Terriers are independent, high-energy dogs and being restrained is not their favorite mode. But for their safety and that of others a sturdy restraint is a must.

For some smaller breeds like Yorkies or Skyes a collar and leash might well be good enough. Provided they're sized properly to prevent these clever dogs from slipping out, that can work well. Whether nylon or leather, they will provide the security you need.

Larger breeds, such as the Airedale, or even those who may be shorter but still very strong like an American Pit Bull Terrier, will typically do better with a chest halter.

A Staffordshire Bull Terrier, for example, has a fairly broad chest for a shorter dog. Yet, it has tremendous pulling strength. It's under such circumstances that an unbreakable chest halter is both easy on the dog and yet still gives the owner needed control.

Nylon straps with good plastic clips may work, given how strong these modern materials have become. But leather straps connected with metal rings are a sure bet.

For many individual dogs, especially those trained as watchdogs or working terriers, it can be very useful to have a muzzle. In fact, some counties, states or countries allow certain terrier breeds in public only when they are muzzled.

Like halters and leashes, muzzles come in a wide range of materials and designs. Many are leather, but even with that material there is a large variation. Any that doesn't block the nose for easy breathing and prevents snapping is acceptable.

Some designs take the concept a step further and have a kind of metal-rod cage that fits to the leather. These have the advantage that not only do they prevent snapping, but they allow easy breathing and even treats to be passed in. However, they may not be suitable when young children are nearby, since small fingers can easily pass through the 'bars'.

On the more fun side, for owner and dog, play toys are a practical necessity for terriers. They like nothing so much as play, play, play. Here, there is a world of things to choose from.

Strong fabric 'bones' with knots at both ends are great for playing tug, which many terriers love. But take care with certain breeds, such as Scotties, that can become very competitive during a game. It's still important for you to be the alpha of the pack.

New synthetics offer a lot to choose from. French linen puppy bite tugs are small rectangular 'pillows', often with short looped rope handles. They make for great aids to provide that assertive terrier with something to struggle for while giving you control over the game.

Terriers, like any dog breed, will also benefit from chew toys that offer a means of cleaning tartar from their teeth. Take care to size the rawhide or synthetic bone properly, though. Ones too small can easily be swallowed by larger breeds. Those that are too large eliminate the benefit for smaller dogs, since they'll generally ignore the chew toy.

Fox terriers are among the oldest type of a very varied breed. Once used most often for hunting fox and other game, they're now primarily pets. And what great pets they are, too!

The name actually refers to two fairly different looking terriers, the Smooth Fox Terrier and the Wire-Haired. There are sub-breeds, though, such as the Toy Terrier. Both tend to be about 14-16 inches high and weigh 15-20 pounds. The Wire-Haired is on average a little larger than the Smooth. Well cared for and in the absence of any major illnesses they can live 15 years or more.

Smooth Fox Terriers are, like the name suggests, a smooth-haired coat variety, which is usually made up of a white base with a black or brown saddle. The head is typically brown, topped by floppy but not loose ears, often with a white-tipped muzzle. The body is short, but somewhat stocky.

Wire-haired Terriers, by contrast, often have much less distinct markings, with the colored portion (which can be grayish or black) blending into the white. Partly, this appearance is the result of the curly hair. The face is often tan. The ears are often more sturdy than the Smooth Fox type.

All share a common ancestry and so the behavior of contemporary Fox Terriers is similar. They're high energy, alert and smart. As hunting dogs, they would spot game, run it into a hole, then stay for the hunter to close in. The modern form of that behavior is still on display. They'll chase a cat in a heartbeat. Squirrels should beware when a Fox Terrier is nearby.

That behavior can't be eliminated, but with training it can be shaped. Because they're intelligent and eager to please, they enjoy a good challenge. An obstacle course is a good idea for these active dogs. When they're not allowed to exercise those high spirits, many will engage in undesirable behavior.

They will pick a fight with much larger dogs. Because of their assertiveness, some big dogs will flee. But equally aggressive dogs that are larger will often get the better of the exchange. Outside an enclosed area walking on a leash is always a good idea. Like all terriers, they love to dig.

When they get the attention they crave, they make very loving and loyal companions and can be trained to carry out tasks. The dog in the famous Thin Man films (Asta) was a small, wire-haired fox terrier.

When introduced young to other pets in the home, whether dogs or cats, they can often get along well. But long-bred-in instincts are hard to overcome and the limits should not be pressed. Keep hamsters and others at a safe distance. Fox terrier behavior can be shaped, but training will not erase the odds of them going after a small pet. They're loving and loyal to their intimate friend, but will generally always be a little stubborn.

Because the group of terrier breeds is so diverse it's difficult to find a single set of diseases common to all. Even calling a condition common is a little misleading, since it means only that it tends to occur more often within that breed. It does not mean that most individuals get that disease.

That said, here are a few things to watch out for when buying a terrier puppy or caring for your dog...

von Willebrand's Disease

Also referred to as vWD, von Willebrand's disease is an inherited condition that may lead to excessive bleeding, similar to hemophilia in humans. The absence of a certain protein may cause some dogs to bleed profusely when their quicks are nipped during nail grooming, for example. But it can occur at other times, producing bloody urine, bleeding at the gums and nose, and elsewhere.

Several breeds can have the condition, with pure breds at greater risk than those of mixed parentage. Jack Russells acquire vWD, but less often than others. It's more common in Scottish Terriers and Miniature Schnauzers.

Testing prospective parents can help avoid the production of new puppies with this genetic disorder.

Legg-Perthes Disease

Another condition that has a strong genetic component, Legg-Perthes causes the tip of the femur (the thigh bone) to degenerate. The result is pain and a limping gait. While it occurs in only a small percentage of individuals, it's most common among Yorkshires. The cause is thought to be insufficient circulation around the hip joint more common in these than in other terrier breeds.

When it does occur, it's most likely to be seen within the first 6-8 months of life. Surgical treatment can usually correct the condition, though, by removing the affected portion of the bone. Fibrous tissue then forms, which prevents the wear on the joint. The procedure does, however, leave the dog with a slightly shorter leg so it should be discussed thoroughly with your vet.

Patellar Luxation

Patellar luxation is another genetic defect more often found in Yorkies than other terriers. Their weaker ligaments and tendons supporting the knee joint can cause the cap to slip out of the V-shaped groove in which it naturally lies.

The result is considerable pain and lameness. A similar condition can occur to humans and any who have suffered from it can report that it is very uncomfortable. Here again, surgery can correct the defect, often with excellent results. However, the procedure doesn't strengthen the components that help hold the joint in place. Affected dogs should maintain a less vigorous lifestyle than otherwise.

Heart Disease

Terriers can suffer from various heart ailments, most of them the result of a genetic defect.

While unlikely, cardiomyopathy is one of the more common. This abnormality of the heart muscle can lead to lung edema (fluid into the lung). One of the symptoms is weakness during mild exercise. It occurs in Jack Russells and others. In other diseases, valves may not open and close properly, causing abnormal blood flow. American Staffordshire Terriers are somewhat more prone than others to this defect. Among Bull Terriers aortic stenosis is more common.

Like many other breeds, worms can be responsible for heart problems if proper vaccination schedules haven't been followed. That can affect any breed. A series of heart tests is always wise when any heart malfunction is suspected.

Most terriers, at least until old age when many body systems weaken, will lead healthy lives. They're energetic and have great endurance. Simply be on the lookout for any unusual dampening of those high spirits and seek professional advice when they occur.

The Cairn Terrier and the West Highland Terrier or Westies are close cousins, and related also to their Highland neighbor: the Scottie.

Cairns

The Cairn is closest to the original breed developed in the Highlands of Scotland over 200 years ago. These intrepid small dogs would chase small game from cairns (rock piles) and generally help in the hunt. Today, that behavior has changed to take on new challenges, but the instinct remains.

They retain the large feet and teeth of their ancestors, but the latter are rarely used to harm these days. They're feisty but among the friendlier terriers to strangers and other small animals. They may chase a cat, but rarely try to harm one.

They strongly resemble their Scottie cousins, but tend to be a little taller, reaching 12-14 inches (31.5 cm) on average and weighing up to 18 lbs (8 kg). The ears are pointy and erect, always alert to their surroundings. The eyes reflect that same attention to the environment.

They make perfect traveling pets, but long car trips should be punctuated with occasional walks to let them work off some of their perpetual energy. Fortunately, they're easily trained and respond quickly to requests without the excessive willfulness common to some terrier breeds.

Westies

Westies are a close relative, but their coat is typically all white, as distinguished from the black or brown of their cousins. The topcoat is straight over a dense undercoat so they will shed somewhat and regular grooming is important to keep them in optimal health.

During the 18th and 19th centuries when the breed was being developed, their white coat was selected for since it helped distinguish them clearly from game during a hunt. A brown terrier in flight can resemble a fleeing fox from a distance.

A bit smaller than the Cairn from whom they descended, they tend to range from 10-12 inches (22.5-26 cm) but weigh anywhere from 15-20 lbs (6.8-9 kg). Females, as is usual, are a bit lighter and shorter.

Despite their natural high energy, Westies (like virtually all dogs) sleep a lot more than people, anywhere from 13-15 hours out of 24, though longer is not abnormal. They'll sleep through the night usually, taking dog naps throughout the daytime.

But when they're up, they're up. They love a good walk and play comes as naturally to them as to children. Lack of exercise can lead to behavior problems, so though they live well indoors make sure they get plenty.

They love companionship but can tolerate stretches of time alone, since they tend to be a little on the independent side. Given the proper environment - the right toys and a safe area - they can amuse themselves for long intervals. Like all terriers, though, they were bred to hunt and digging will occur with unsupervised dogs. Take care that your garden isn't accessible.

The American Pit Bull terrier is quite a bit different from his smaller relatives. The product of an historical cross between the Bulldog and Terrier carried out in the UK in the mid-1800s they are a bit of both. The combination, though, is a unique dog.

They typically weigh between 45-60 lbs (20-27 kg) and stand 20-24 inches (45-54cm) tall at the shoulder. The coat is usually short, dense, and beige or gray, though white is far from unknown. Their lifespan is about 10-12 years on average, given good care. They're muscular and seek exercise to keep them not only fit but calm. The eyes are somewhat triangular.

These fighting dogs were bred for ferocity, strength and fearlessness - qualities highly valued in hunting and illegal sports, such as bull-baiting and dog fights. Because of their fierce reputation, not always justified, they're illegal to sell or breed in the UK and Canada. Many areas of the U.S. and Australia allow ownership but place restrictions on use, such as requiring a muzzle when the dog is out in public.

But the breed is a mixture in ways other than its ancestry. Selective breeding practices aimed to eliminate aggressive behavior toward people, while retaining it toward other animals. Yet, as a watchdog, the opposite attitude is preferred. As a result, training an American Pit Bull Terrier requires care and consistency.

While their reputation as being dangerous to people is often overstated, attacking strangers is not unknown. In the case of this breed, the training regime plays a large role in outcome. That's somewhat unlike many other terrier breeds where the training shapes behavior but the dog retains much of its instinctive behavior regardless.

Fortunately, like any dog, American Pit Bull Terriers can definitely be trained and trained well. They're extremely athletic, intelligent and have tremendous endurance. They're outstanding on the obstacle course and perform well as Border Patrol or Police dogs where they're often used for drug or explosive sniffing duties.

Because of their strength and intelligence, they may also get 'jobs' providing services to the deaf, where they help keep their companion out of harm's way. Today, their usual role is often much more mainstream. They are frequently used as watchdogs, a job they do extremely well.

While they can be aggressive, many owners know that their personal pet is loving, loyal and even friendly. American Pit Bull Terriers can enjoy play and will chase a ball or Frisbee until long after the human is worn out. This again is evidence of a flexible nature, highly influenced by training and early experiences in the dog's life.

Like much else today, whether to give your dog vaccinations is a matter of some controversy. Getting objective information is difficult because there are so many advocates on both sides of the question. Some even sound reasonable. Those who might be concerned about the issue will want to do their own research to get as clear a view as possible.

What is indisputable is that prior to the development of vaccines, many Golden Retrievers and other breeds died of infectious diseases. After their development and widespread use, deaths due to viruses were reduced.

The controversy is less over whether or not to vaccinate, but when, how often and with what.

Puppies have immature immune systems, but not entirely so. During gestation they receive a blood supply from the mother that helps them fight disease. That process is continued and strengthened as they receive the mother's milk. But that maternal contribution is temporary.

By about 5 months of age, the antibodies supplied by the mother have completely faded. At this stage, they are vulnerable to harmful (and potentially fatal) viruses. There's no guarantee they will come into contact with any of them, of course. But the consequences are so severe that most people opt to get vaccinations for their Golden.

Those shots typically start at about 6-8 weeks of age, as the maternal antibodies start to wane. Through the injection of live or killed viruses, the puppy generates a response by producing its own antibodies.

Which is the better type of vaccine, live or killed virus, is an area of ongoing research. Live viruses stimulate a greater response, but represent a greater risk of inducing the disease the vaccine is designed to protect against. Killed vaccines are safer, but they stimulate a lesser response in the pup and therefore may create the need for more (or more frequent) shots to gain the same effect.

Most vets today will use killed or modified virus-based vaccines, since they're safer. The shots continue every month or two (every vet has a slightly different recommendation) for about four more months. Then, the recommendations become more divided. Some advocate continuing yearly, others say that's unnecessary. The science is still uncertain.

There are several common viral diseases that vaccines are used to combat, and some of the vaccines are 'combos' that are designed to guard against more than one. Parvovirus and Leptospirosis are two of the most common. Bordetella, an organism that causes 'kennel cough' is about equally common, as is distemper and corona.

Most vets will recommend vaccinations for these and, provided a quality vaccine is used, the shots are safe and effective. Some side effects do occur in Goldens and precautions should be taken to react quickly to them.

Facial swelling within half an hour after the shot is received occurs in some and treatment with Benadryl should be immediate. That swelling is a sign of a problem, and a potentially very serious one. In extreme cases, anaphylaxis (producing breathing difficulties, possible vomiting and other consequences) is possible. In any case, be prepared to see your vet instantly when symptoms are observed.

Rabies vaccines are possibly the most controversial. Though it's very rare these days for a dog to get rabies, because of past experience and the seriousness of the disease (both for pet and human) most states require the shots. Shots are typically required at six months, then every two to three years thereafter.

After the first year or two of vaccinations, current research suggests that the effectiveness and/or need of vaccines is considerably reduced. The dog's immune system builds up antibodies which remain in the system for several years.

How many years is still a matter of research, but 6-10 is not uncommon, according to some studies. Since the higher figure is at the low end of the Golden Retriever's lifespan, shots later in life is probably unwarranted.

Ongoing studies may give a definitive answer to the value versus potential of vaccines within the next several years. Until the issue is settled, only your vet can advise you properly. Only you can weigh the risks and benefits.

The image of a friendly, active Golden Retriever is familiar to anyone who has seen a magazine ad or TV commercial. And there's a good reason that breed features prominently in so many of them: it's all true!

Golden Retrievers are one of the most easily trained breeds because they are smart, active and sociable. They take readily to any sort of outdoor activity because they enjoy anything that gets them moving. From their beginning as a derivative of Russian circus dogs in the mid-19th century, they've been bred to retrieve. Fetching a tennis ball, jumping short fences and other such activities are a natural extension of retrieving game.

They're easily socialized and friendly with people and (usually) other animals. Individuals vary, but they typically adapt well to children and other pets. But proper socialization does take a modest amount of training. Golden Retrievers can be territorial and will bark at or chase animals and people who are not part of their regular environment.

In general, they don't make good watch dogs or guard dogs despite their ready bark. They will definitely alert on the approach of the delivery person, but they also will bark at random movement. Teaching them to tell the difference can be a big challenge. They may bark at a stationary car outside the front screen door or a rabbit darting across the grass outside. Too many false alarms make most of them unsuitable for that role.

Also, since they're so friendly by nature, they will almost never attack a person. Training them to do so is not consistent with their nature. Though they bark, they rarely bite. Their bark is a greeting, not a warning or a sign of anger. And though they can be mouthy, owing to their breeding history, biting in anger or protection is almost unknown.

They're among the most intelligent of breeds, though, and can learn a wide variety of behaviors with only modest effort. They're easily housebroken and will give clear signs (after initial training) that they need to be let outside to eliminate. Training them to fetch is almost automatic, but they can also be taught easily to sit, stay, roll over and more.

Reducing leash tugging for a Retriever, as with many large breeds, can be a challenge. But since they're eager to please they can be taught to patiently wait at your side, or walk along without pulling forward. Like any training program, this will take a few weeks with most individuals and is best carried out young.

Since they're so active and energetic by nature, it's important to give them plenty of room to run and lots of exercise. Inside the house, they can get into trouble without intending to. Their tails wag often because they're generally a happy and active breed and this is how they express it. That can cause objects to get knocked off the coffee table, or anywhere else low enough for them to reach.

They prefer company and being left alone for long periods is not healthy. If there's no person at home during the day, having at least one other dog as a partner is best.

They're best for people who want an active, friendly dog, one they're willing to devote time and attention to.

Since surgery is involved, the decision to spay your female Golden Retriever is a very serious one. There are benefits and risks whichever option you pick.

Spaying is essentially performing a hysterectomy on your dog, removing the uterus and ovaries to prevent pregnancy and menstrual cycles. Female Goldens have a 'heat' about every six months, during which time they're fertile and eager to mate. Removing those sex organs eliminates the possibility of pregnancy. But it also causes her body to reduce the hormones that cause heats as well.

The reduction of those hormones is one of the chief health reasons that so many vets recommend spaying. Unspayed Golden Retrievers have about a 25% chance of developing breast cancer tumors. Spaying reduces the odds to about 6%, if the young female is spayed just after the first or second heat. Beyond tumors, there are other conditions that can represent a health risk. The odds of getting endometritis, for example, can be reduced by spaying.

There are other health-related reasons to consider spaying. Mating and pregnancy bring their own risks.

When a female is in heat, she sends out a pheromone (a biochemical attractant) that can be scented by males for a mile or more. Larger males can, and will, often leap a fence to get to the female. But mating with a larger species dog (or any other) can represent an unwanted pregnancy that puts your Golden at risk.

While it's certainly a natural process, pregnancy is somewhat more difficult in some respects for dogs than for humans, especially when they're larger than purebred Goldens. Litters number around eight pups. The odds of all surviving and being healthy are about 50-50. The effort puts a definite strain on the mother and the human who assists.

But there are factors beyond health to consider.

Females in heat ooze blood during their cycle just as other mammals do. That can be messy and inconvenient to clean up. This lasts for about two weeks. The total cycle is roughly three weeks. The first few days she'll release a scent that attracts males, even when you can't see anything.

Having to keep males away, or just tolerating their behavior, during this time can be an annoyance. Even when they're physically barred from access, in fact even more so because of it, they'll become real pests. They whine, they wander back and forth along the fence, scratch doors and exhibit other actions to show interest.

With all that said, spaying is surgery and carries some risk. The procedure is carried out by vets every day and most are experienced. But removing major organs that have evolved for a purpose is always a difficult choice. And, some Golden Retriever owners may want to undertake the perfectly legitimate process of mating their Golden.

Most pregnancies, with the proper care, can proceed with relatively little difficulty. For those with the skill and time, pups can be well cared for. Many healthy litters are born every day. The minor inconvenience of a dog in heat twice a year may be worthwhile to some.

Weigh the pros and cons carefully and arrive at the choice that is best for you and your loved companion.

Many dogs are deliberately not socialized - guard dogs, some guide dogs, drug sniffing dogs and others who have specialized duties. Many others simply live with people who don't regard it as important enough to bother about. Many animals from shelters have had unpleasant experiences, making the task more difficult.

But socializing your Golden Retriever is not only easy, it leads to a better adjusted dog and higher safety for you and your pet. Fortunately, where Goldens are concerned, socializing your dog is relatively easy. Like any animal, in the absence of exposure while young to other dogs, animals and humans they can be wary and territorial.

Goldens are naturally curious, intelligent, active and eager to please. They play with other pups in the litter, making a game of dominance activities and exploration. You can build on that in-built social nature to acclimate them to pets of other breeds or species in the home and outside it.

Start socializing your Golden at a young age, approximately 8-10 weeks. Take proper precautions, though. You want to carry out the process safely and there are two major sources of risk. The first is physical injury, the second is disease.

Goldens are not particularly aggressive, relative to many other breeds. They prefer to play. That puts them at a disadvantage when other dogs or animals attack. Carrying out socialization safely will first require the ability to control the environment and any movement that your dog and another animal can make. Use of enclosed areas and/or proper leashes or harnesses are the minimum safeguards needed.

Next, ensure that your Golden is properly vaccinated and that they're exposed only to other animals that are too. Kennel cough and other, more serious, infectious diseases are common in many environments. When exposed, vaccination makes the difference between becoming infected or not.

Once you're in a safe place, with the proper restraints and the absence of surprises or distractions, you can easily socialize your Golden. The initial phase takes only a few weeks, though the process should ideally be carried out continuously for life.

Firmly grasp the leash and allow your dog to use its natural curiosity to explore the other animal. The other animal, needless to say, should be similarly restrained. Most young Goldens will want to 'play nice'. They're friendly and eager to explore this new phenomenon.

Individual responses will differ somewhat, since even among Goldens there are alpha dogs and omega dogs, those who are assertive and those who hold back. But even shy dogs can welcome contact if they're made to feel there is no danger, and that the alpha (that's you, in this case) is in control.

First contact should be relatively short, a few minutes at most. Gradually work up to longer exposure and a wider variety of humans and animals. Those who grow up together will usually not require any special considerations, but outsiders should be introduced slowly.